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Even though travel is crazy and fast in what are often called "chicken buses" (US school buses that are painted and decorated and packed full of people like a truck full of chickens) we had a long ride from Xela to Antigua with long waits for traffic and construction. Once we arrived we were dissappointed that the hostal reservation we had called in the day before somehow was lost and we needed to wander the city for another place to stay.
Early Saturday morning we got on a bus that would take us a little south for one of our primary reasons for our visit: a hike up the active volcano Pacaya. Of the 33 volcanos in Guatemala, 3 are still active: Santiaguito (right beside Santa Maria), Fuego (not far from Pacaya) and Pacaya. The hike is easy and the volcano is well monitered, so there were lots of people making the trip up and down. We climbed from around 1900 m to 2400 m. We could easily see the peak at 2500 m, but we weren't to go up the whole way. Still, it was really something new to hike on lava rock with steam coming up through and to have the chance to see some hot lava crumbling down the volcano.
After lunch, cleaning up and some rest, we took a stroll through the old streets downtown to see the ruins of old churches, lots of arts and crafts stores and other interesting sites. The highlight of the afternoon was stopping in to the internet and learning that Byron Peachey (friend and coworker at EMU) had finally made it through a delayed flight and long time traveling and had come out to Antigua for the weekend as well. He and his wife, Deanna Durham, will be leading the EMU cross cultural trip to Guatemala and the US/Mexico border next spring semester, and he's in the area for a planning trip. As we read his email at 5:30, we saw he suggested in his email that we meet up at a Cafe Condesa along the main plaza at 6:00, so we left right away. We found the restaurant and before long, Byron too! It was fun to catch up and talk about our experience so far and hear Byron's recommendations for other places and things not to miss.
In the morning we met up with Byron again for a delicious breakfast and then went together to visit, from what I understand, is the only 5 star hotel owned by Guatemalans. It is a large old Dominican convent built in the 1530s and has been partly restored and partly turned into really nice facilities. Apparently this was where Clinton stayed during his visit during his presidency.
We said our goodbyes to Byron before Rebekah and I went for an early lunch so we could get started on our trip back. We had some delicious pasta for lunch, picked up our bags from the hotel and headed back to Xela.
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]]>On Sunday we were going to go with our host family to their church, but they've been in the process of converting to an electric water heater (a progressive step in response to the rising price of gas) and they chose to stay around to work out some problems. We walked downtown and visited the mass at the main cathedral. The area's archbishop happened to be there and gave the message of the morning.
It started raining in the afternoon, but there some other students who were still interested in a trip back to the Fuentes Georginas to enjoy the hot springs. There were many more people there than the last time we visited, but it was still a really nice visit and we enjoyed some tortillas with refried beans and hot chocolate in the restaurante beside the springs. Also, someone else must have mistaken our towells for theirs so we had to buy new towells back in Xela...
Yesterday afternoon ICA's activity was a reforstation project, so Rebekah and I, along with some other students went out to see the tree nursery and then go to a nearby hill to transplant some cyprus. It was the first time I had the chance to actually help plant the plants where they would end up and it was a beautiful view out over the countryside from up the hill. I went out again this morning with the students that study during the afternoon shift and enjoyed the project again.
In our host family's place the current event is the preparation for their oldest daughter's 15th birthday party in August (la quincinñera) which is a really big ordeal (like a wedding). So last night some relatives were over and all the women were working on the party favors and table ornaments and everything. Looks like a lot of work.
]]>We all met at ICA at 7 am, which felt a little early, and rode over in the back of the pickup to the primary school. There we set up a little classroom into a clinic. We had four stops, first to register, second blood pressure (or pulse for the children), third glucose checks and lastly a chat with the doctor. An older couple who are studying here took charge of the first stop, Derrick and I the second and a premed student and another guy from the US did the glucoses.
We were supposed to start at 8 and go until 11. Basically we started as soon as we got there and went until 1. We had seen 134 patients by the time we left. I had sore ears and a blister on my left middle finger from listening to blood pressures continuously for nearly 6 hours. It was well worth the blister.
Derrick and I gave stickers to the children, but one child looked at me once and decided he did not want me to touch him with my stethescope. After it was all said and done and we gave him a sticker he smiled a little bit. I got plenty of practice using the phrase ¨Podria relajar su brazo aqui¨(Could you relax your arm here).
I was greatful to have the job of blood pressures though, because the job of checking glucose was not as simple as I had practiced. Instead of the very short retractable needles, they had to use injection needles to prick people´s fingers. I was pretty impressed at how gentle and quick they became by the end of the morning.
Near the end of the morning I realized that my mother has seen similar numbers of patients when she worked at the clinic from our home in Kenya. I can imagine how long a day can be when that many patients trickle in throughout the day.
Needless to say my class that afternoon was a little more laid back due to my tiredness. Derrick went to see how the traditional skirts are made in Salcaja that afternoon as well.
We´re looking forward to another interesting weekend as we wrap up our third and middle week in Guatemala.
*Rebekah
]]>Today after class and lunch we went on a longer walk over to the big shopping mall in town. My shoe broke during the weekend so we went to find another pair. The mall is pretty crazy, and really not my favorite place in Xela, but it is an interesting contrast. We stopped for a snack at a frozen yogurt store and it was amazing. It reminded me of the place in the ABC plaza in Kenya where we would get frozen yogurt. We also found a pair of shoes.
It is hard to believe we are almost half way done with our trip. In some ways it feels like we've been here a long time, in other ways it feels like we're barely getting started. I'm excited for this week because we are going to do a clinic at a school a little bit out of the city. I'm sure it will be another new experience…
* Rebekah
]]>When we arrived on Saturday, our group checked our things into a nice little hotel in Panajachel and then jumped in a small boat that took us across to our second lake town of Santiago Atitlan. We got the feeling pretty quickly about the strength of the tourist industry here and the number of stores and vendors that cater to people like us. It was a lot of fun to see the unique crafts, including many colorful paintings replicating the style of Juan Sisay, a famous painter from this town. We visited the town's very old cathedral, which had a sobering memorial commorating the building's role as a refuge for people during the war and the lives of the martyrs, including some priests, who died in their efforts to protect the people from the violence. Our last stop before lunch was to visit the town's image of San Simón, which represents a fellow who apparently had a gift of curing people in this region many years ago. He was never given sainthood by the Catholic church, but folks still honor him and pray for help and healings and whatever else. In each village around the lake, our guide from ICA pointed out and discussed the persisting syncretism in between Catholic and Mayan traditions.
As we rode in the boat to our next town, it started to rain and our next visits were cut a little short. Nevertheless, we really enjoyed seeing a women's cooperative where they weave their work. We took a picture with two little girls weaving bracelets and bought some of their work. Santa Catarina was the last town we visited, where we looked at the mixing of religious traditions within the Catholic church there and local art gallery. Back in Panajachel in the evening we had some tasty supper at a restaurant along the lakeside.
On Sunday morning we explored the town a while and stumbled upon and stayed around for a baptismal service in the lake. They sang some choruses that were familiar to us and around a half dozen people made public confessions of faith and were baptised. It was refreshing to see something more authentically of the people beyond the street vendors for tourists.
From there, we took our microbus to the city of Chichicastenango, which has a famous market on Sundays and Thursdays. It was certainly some of the things we had seen before, and much more as well. It was also interesting to observe where the market targeted tourists and where it met the needs of local folks. The most eventful thing of the afternoon was when Rebekah's shoe sole fell/peeled about halfway off. It was probably the best place for this to happen and she flopped around until we found one of the many shoe repair stands where they could glue it back together.
Back in Xela around 7:00 in the evening, we ate supper and rested for another week of classes, trees and other activities.
From there we went out for lunch by the beach in Champerico. Rebekah and I enjoyed collecting some sea shells. The waves were a little big and undertoe a little strong to want to spend much time in the water though.
On Sunday morning we took advangtage of the opportunity to go with a group up Santa Maria 12,375 ft, the volcano that dominates the horizon outside of Xela (around 7,200 ft). Looking at the mountain from the city, I was convinced that the mountain must have a ton of switchbacks for as steep as the angles were on the mountain (a math prof here estimated it at at least 35 degrees :)), but the trail had nothing of the sort. The hike was an exilarating 4 hour pull straight up the mountain. Fortunately there was an amazing view behind us every time we would take a break to look back (which we needed to do rather frequently).
We were a pretty sore yesterday and today, but this afternoon ICA had a timely event to help restore us. A small group of us rode up to the beautiful Fuentes Georginas, an amazing hot spring off the Zunil Volcano. It was an absolutely incredible mix between the mountanous scenery, the tropical vegetation and the relaxing water. Unfortantely we forgot our camera, so we'll either need to borrow some digital pictures from others, or, maybe, go back again :)
Classes are going well for Rebekah; she chose to stay with the same teacher this week since they seem to get along. I've been helping in the tree nursery in the mornings which feels good to be outside (although I've learned to take greater precautions for sun) and its interesting to learn a little about what some people go through to earn $6 or $7 a day. Today we counted out and sold 750 white pine and 750 alder trees to some folks working for local government in a nearby town who plan to plant them in and around an existing forest.
]]>I took a scenic route back to our host familys home for lunch (i.e. missed a few turns), but also got to catch some out-of-town scenes: seeing the farmers working their fields by hand, women gathered at a community laundry point to scrub their clothes, the general above-ground cemetary (including a large grave that looked like it may have been commemorating the Guatemala´s long civil war that ended in 1996).
Back in the city, I'm once again in the company of a computer, electric laundry machines, even hot water for a shower (except when I can't get past the dog Nena to light the heater).
Tomorrow holds a trip that I've been looking forward to throughout the week. A group from the school is taking a trip to visit a large coffee estate about an hour from here to learn about their production. From there we'll travel another half hour to visit the Pacific black sand beach in Champerico for a few hours before heading back to Xela. More about that afterwards!
-derrick
]]>Today we woke up a bit early due to the time difference. We had a lovely breakfast and went out to walk around. The city is a little hard to describe, it reminds me of Migori or Narok (for my family) except it goes on for a much larger area. Derrick says it reminds him of Santa Cruz, but in the mountains. We´ve learned a little bit about what we´ll be doing and hopefully figure out more as we go.
We´re both happy to be here. Keep us in your prayers.
Blessings!
Rebekah (and Derrick)
When I didn’t have my head in my notes, trying to absorb as much information as I could for ambiguous final exams, I had some great opportunities to spend time with local and European friends. Last Thursday the Spanish grammar course class got together with all the other grammar students from other levels for a barbeque on the beach. (But barbeques apparently aren’t allowed anymore on the beaches, so it was just sort of a potluck.) I realized that that class, which was small and met 8 hours a week, had actually gotten to know each other pretty well, and I probably had taken that class for granted. Those from my class planned together then one last time before I left, which took place Monday night at our teacher Teresa’s place. That was another good time to share stories, plans, and then, goodbyes. Most of the other students were staying until the end of June for the normal testing dates. There was also the visit to Jose’s family’s house on Sunday, and a visit with German friend Tobias yesterday at his apartment with some ice cream and coffee.
It’s been interesting that I came expecting to learn something about Europe with the Erasmus students, but not nearly as much as I would learn about Spain. I suppose that has been the case, but I didn’t expect to be able learn some things about Spain through of discussions and comparisons in conversations with other Europeans.
Learning certainly has no end either. I was learning things about Cádiz up to the day I left (like where the famous Torre Tavira was). On the plane from Madrid to New York I ended up next to a really interesting character named Andrés Dominguez. He was born in 1926, and began writing poetry when he was young. His art and political perspective led him to France during the civil war, but he was captured, returned, tortured, and found his way out again, this time to Argentina. The rest of his life he would spend mostly out of his home country, with significant time in Chile (where he met Pablo Neruda), Bolivia, and the last twenty two years in the US. He continues to write and also teach some in the Spanish literature department at New York’s Columbia University. Since the Franco dictatorship ended in 1975, he has been back and forth between Madrid and New York to visit his siblings and friends there. Between his travels and conflicts with governments, he seems just as much a historian and a political analyst as he is a writer.
I’m writing from the New York airport as I wait for my connecting flight to BWI, where I’ll meet my parents and travel home to Lancaster, bringing nearly five months of travel to a close. My talk with Andrés brought together a number of things that I have been thinking and learning about since coming to Spain, and at the same time opened up the experience of a new person, with new ideas and stories. There is a world of unique people and experiences to be encountered. One chapter closes and another begins, but there’s always a greater understanding to be discovered ahead...
]]>Our bus to return to Cádiz didn’t leave until 3:00, so we spent some of our first hours catching up in the airport and then exploring the city. We looked for what appeared to be a park on the metro’s map, but ended up being an industrial area. We eventually moved along to the bus station to begin the long bus ride back to Cádiz. After lots of conversations we made our way into the Tacita de Plata at around 10:30 or so in the evening. Although it was raining some, we were anxious to stretch our legs so we walked part of the way back to Antonio and Isabel’s house. We met my host parents, who were somewhat startled that I would bring my fiancé who was tired from travel and carrying a heavy backpack through the rain to get there. Anyhow we cleaned up, ate some light food and called it a day.
The next few days we spent in Cádiz exploring the city and talking about how many classes I could afford to skip. It was a relaxing time to share together, but we certainly did a lot of things too: visiting the Santa Catalina fortress, walking along the beaches, in the plazas and parks, eating churros with hot chocolate, visiting the museum, meeting host family members, taking in some flamenco, and other activities. On Saturday we took a fun little trip over to El Puerto de Santa María on the boat El Vapor de Cádiz.
The following morning we took a train to the famous Andalucian city of Granada. A quick historical note: in 1492, the Italian Columbus sailed west for Spain and found himself in what he thought was the Indies. That same year the Catholic king Ferdinand of Aragon and queen Isabella of Castile had two other significant kingdom achievements: their Inquisition expelled the Jews from the country and they took control of Granada the last Muslim stronghold of Al-Andalus. The moriscos were the Muslims who stayed and were Christianized, others left and others were killed.
A half millennium later, this history is still told through the architecture throughout the city, and most impressively in the famous Alhambra. Rebekah and I spent the better part of our Monday exploring the different parts of the ancient “red castle.” We began by seeing the oldest part section, the Alcazaba (13th century) which has a great view of the city and the surrounding Sierra Nevada mountains. We continued into the Casa Real, the Palace from the Nasrid dynasty which was filled with halls, fountains, pools, and incredibly detailed designs along the walls and ceilings. Of the later Christian additions, the most significant is the palace of Carlos V. It doesn’t seem to fit with the rest of the architecture of the Alhambra, but it’s still an impressive Renaissance work. Up the hill is the Generalife, which is a beautiful gardens area maintained in the ancient Moorish style.
On Tuesday we took some time to explore other corners of the city, including the Albaicín. This neighborhood has some original houses that apparently date back to the 15th century. It was historically an Arab quarter, but today is largely inhabited by gitanos, or gypsies. We took in the two designated look-out points which give another impressive view of the Alhambra, city and mountains.
Rebekah and I decided to move towards Madrid the next day and took the five-hour bus to the capital city. We dropped off our things at a hostel, got a bite to eat, and set out to explore the city some. I had just made contact with the first and cheapest place I found, and we were surprised that it happened to be just a few blocks away from the Royal Palace. Although the large park that sits down the hill behind the Palace was closed for the evening, we had a great view of the sunset from the Palace patio.
The next morning Rebekah and I pulled our things together took our metro ride to the airport. We said our “see you in less than three weeks,” and she made her way to her gate. Until my bus would leave at 3:00 in the afternoon, I tried to entertain myself by walking in the Gran Retiro park and seeing the glass palace and other monuments and buildings there. A long ride back to Cádiz brought our ten-day adventure to a close.